All testimonials are from customers who have called, mailed, or emailed our office. We will only publish first names online.

Toilet:

• Is your toilet leaking? To find out, add a small amount of red food coloring to 

the tank, and then check the toilet bowl later. If the water has turned red, water 

is seeping through from the tank, and you may need to change some tank parts.

 

Washing Machine:

• Cracked or defective/leaky washing machine hoses are one of the leading 

causes for Homeowners Insurance claims. Check your hoses periodically for 

leaks, and replace plastic hoses every three years.

• Make sure that the drain hose is secured to the washing machine outlet box. 

If not secured properly, the pressure could cause the hose to jump out of the 

drain outlet when the pump activates, spilling tremendous volumes of water onto 

your floor.

 

Refrigerator:

• The small water line that goes from your refrigerator can easily become kinked. 

Plastic lines also become brittle from use, which 

leads to leaks. Both situations can cause extensive damage to the walls, floor, 

and cabinets around the refrigerator. Be sure to check and periodically replace 

brittle lines and check metal lines for crimps or kinks.

 

Garbage Disposal:

• Run plenty of cold water when using your garbage disposal.

• Do not overload it or dispose of things like bones or corn husks.

•  Never put your hands in the disposal unplug and always use tongs.

 

Pipes:

• Know where your emergency water shut-off valves are located, and know the difference 

between the outside water shut-off and the inside water shut-off in case of emer-

gency. 

• If leaving your home for extended periods during winter months, set your 

thermostat at approx. 60 degrees and leave your cabinet doors open inside. As 

an added precaution, turn the water off. If the pipes do freeze, turn the heat up, 

open all cabinet doors, and close your crawlspace vents.

• To help prevent clogs, fit all your tubs and shower drains with a strainer that 

catches hair and soap chips, and clean the strainer regularly. Be sure that over-

flow holes on tubs and sinks are clear and open to prevent water damage to 

floors and ceilings.

• Do not rinse fats or cooking oils down the kitchen sink, as they can solidify in 

the pipes and cause clogs.

• If you have a pipe that is completely clogged, avoid using caustic liquid drain 

openers (like Drano or Liquid Plumber). The caustic ingredients can get trapped 

in your pipes and could cause serious damage. Some people try environmentally 

safe drain maintenance additives, but these are more effective as preventative 

maintenance and are not meant for use on completely obstructed drains. 

• If you can’t snake it yourself, call a professional!

 

Water Heater:

• Always shut off the power or gas before doing anything to your water heater.

• At least once a year, drain water from the tank to remove sediment buildup.

• If your water heater is gas, periodically inspect the water heater burner. The 

flame under the heater should appear blue with yellow tips. If it’s mostly yellow, 

or if it’s sooty under there, your flue may be clogged, which is a dangerous situa-

tion.

• At least once a year, have your water heater inspected by a service techni-

cian.

 

Air Conditioner:

• Check the condensate hose to be sure it is not blocked with algae.

• Clean the outside condensing unit screen of leaves.

• Listen for unusual noises and call a professional when necessary. 

 

Humidifiers:

• A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria or add too 

much moisture to a house. After the heating season ends, don't forget to pull the 

plug, shut the water valve and drain the unit. If the unit has a water reservoir, 

drain and clean it with white vinegar, a mix of one part chlorine bleach to eight 

parts water or muriatic acid. 

• Clean mist-type humidifiers regularly to remove mineral deposits.

 

Thermostat:

• While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as me-

chanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if 

they've been knocked out of level or have dirty switches. To recalibrate an older 

unit, use a wrench to adjust the nut on the back of the mercury switch until it 

turns the system on and, using a room thermometer, set it to the correct tem-

perature. Caulk the hole where the thermostat wire comes through the wall, or a 

draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.

 

Furnace Filter:

• Most houses with forced-air furnaces have a standard furnace filter made 

from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. 

Unfortunately, they don't improve indoor air quality. If you want better air quality, 

you need to upgrade to a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct 

and the blower cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material, media 

filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and 

other particles.

• Although media filters can last up to two years, their tight weave can restrict 

a furnace's ability to blow air through the house. To insure a steady, strong 

airflow through the house, choose a filter that matches your blower's capacity